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When assembling a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a distant area of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the family utterly surprised.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.